Sunday, 17 June 2018

Sarafa Bazar – A Place You Cannot Miss While You Are Still Alive

Sarafa Bazar – A Place You Cannot Miss While You Are Still Alive

Sarafa Bazar looks like a street which has been created to regale people with a permanent feast. You just need two things to be a hogger at Sarafa Bazaar – an insatiable appetite and a guilt-free approach. Sarafa is an eating expedition of sorts.

By Hariharan Iyer

“If you take me to Sarafa Bazar, I will come in a day earlier,” I told my friend Amber when he called to invite me for a talk to Indore. “Sure,” he said. The decision was made. I had passed by Indore a few times recently, but couldn't get a chance to visit one of India's most iconic food streets.

Amber, his wife Rishabha and me got into his car as he drove us through the streets of Indore. As he deftly turned into one of the older streets of Indore to park his car, I knew we were very near Sarafa Bazar. After just a few minutes of walking, Lo!, we entered a crowded street where all kinds of food items were being sold and people were gobbling them up with relish. 

Malpua
From the street where the car was parked to the one we had just entered, it seemed like two different worlds. Entire Indore seemed to have descended on this place made up of bylanes. Amber told me that this street by day is a jewellery market and transforms itself into a food paradise from 8 pm to 3 am.

I quickly realized the `khaoo gallis` of Mumbai faded in comparison. Sarafa Bazar looks like a street which has been created to regale people with a permanent feast. My friend set the mood when he asked me to be prepared to eat like an avaricious foodie. “The best way to enjoy there is to go with a no-holds-barred attitude,” he said. His description of the jalebi was mouth-watering, yet intimidating. “It is dipped in pure ghee – nothing but pure ghee,” he had kind of `warned`.

We began by having some tikkis and moved on to some paani puris. I was not exactly being `safe` as I kept posting pictures on whatsapp to my wife and daughter. But I had to give them a feel, if not the taste. Every stall was crowded, with not an inch of space. We kept moving through the crowd to try out different things. I noticed the name plates of the jewellers, outside which the food stalls were set up.  

Aloo Tikis

The most fascinating aspect of the visit was the jalebi stall. These jalebis are not like the ones we are used to seeing in Mumbai. They are large, thick and soaked in ghee. Alongside was malpua, to add to the culinary indiscipline. As my teeth tore into the jalebi, I realised consuming the whole thing was out of question.





Jalebis
You just need two things to be a hogger at Sarafa Bazaar – an insatiable appetite and a guilt-free approach. While my conscience was under check, I, though a foodie, have a relatively limited appetite. So I ate up only as much as I felt comfortable eating.

One of the legends of the Indore food story is the Shikanji. I kept asking for it, but Amber kept saying it was heavy, and so should be consumed in the end. He finally bought me a glass of Shikanji – and heavy it was, with a mix of various ingredients. I thought I was going to drink something, but ended up `eating` it.

The Shikanji was the last straw as far as I was concerned in this extraordinary eating expedition of sorts. We headed back home, satisfied that I had visited one of India's most iconic food streets. The immediate feeling I had after visiting Sarafa was it is a place you cannot miss while you are still alive.

Friday, 13 April 2018

Oh! Ooty

Oh! Ooty






Tiring project submissions and approaching end-semester exams notwithstanding, we took off to the cool environs of Ooty in February this year. The idea was fueled by a wedding invitation to Coimbatore. Besides, a pre-exam break seemed like a great idea to me.  

Adiyogi Statue

We left for Coimbatore by an early morning flight on a Sunday. We spent the day catching up with some sleep, delving into some delicious lunch at Coimbatore's landmark restaurant chain `Annapoorna` and visiting Sadhguru Jaggi Vasudev's Isha Foundation. 


Isha foundation 

For us, the Isha Foundation was a forty five minutes drive from the city. We visited Adiyogi, which is a 112 feet statue of Shiva- a newly added attraction to `Incredible India`. The sight was mesmerising. There are bullock carts which take you till the statue to give you a more authentic experience. Later, we meditated at the `Dhyanalingam`, which is an experience in itself.

Next day, after attending a typical South Indian wedding, we left for Ooty. Ooty, also known as Udhagamandalam, is a three-hour drive from Coimbatore. The route has several uncomfortable hair-pin belts, but the scenic beauty compensates for it. 
South Indian Breakfast at the Wedding













We reached Club Mahindra's Derby Green by late afternnon. The resort has residential units from the colonial era, giving it a British touch. It also offers a splendid view of Ooty city, clothed by the majestic mountains and a stunningly clear sky.

That very evening we left for the iconic Ooty lake, a popular spot for several Bollywood movie shootings. My father and me took a paddle boat ride in the lake. It was a bit cumbersome in the beginning, but then we settled into a nice rhythm. You can choose from four- or two-seater paddle boats / row boats, or take a motorboat ride. The setting sun and the cool breeze gave a serene experience. The temperature was only 8 degrees, which was a blessing for us Mumbaikars.

Paddle boat ride at the lake
Next day, we decided to skip the long day Ooty excursions and instead took a train ride to Coonoor. Coonoor has become more popular after it was showcased in the Bollywood films Kapoor and Sons and Golmaal Again. It is less commercialized than Ooty and seems to be more beautiful too.


Coonoor toy train station

 




Hold that DDLJ pose!







We took the hour-long Niligiri toy train ride from Ooty to Coonoor  - by road, it takes half an hour (Find the train timings at http://www.ootytourism.co.in/ooty-to-coonoor-train )The train ride was one of the best experiences of the trip. The route was extremely pretty and hangs like a picture. 
  
View from the toy train
From Coonoor, our cab driver who drove from Ooty, took us to the popular Coonoor tea estate. The experience of being at the tea estate cannot be described in words. The green tea estates shone brightly in the sun with the beautiful sky serving as a perfect backdrop. The moments in the tea estate simply stood still.
Coonoor Tea Estates 
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There are several other attractions in Coonoor - Sims Park, Tea Factory, Dolphin’s Nose and Lamb’s Rock. We skipped the clichéd points and headed for the Ooty Botanical Garden. The garden was surprisingly a disappointment as there were hardly any flowers and had become commercialised with the construction of a road inside. Maybe, it wasn’t the right season for the flowers to bloom. Nevertheless, we spent our evening there and went on to explore the Ooty markets. 

It is astonishing to find so many Chinese restaurants in Ooty. Momos and Gobi Manchurian are two things that one will find in every corner of this hill station. We had a delicious South Indian dinner at Adyar Anand Bhavan and returned to the warmth of our resort as it was quite cold.

On our last day in Ooty, we spent more time at the resort. We indulged in the simple but potentially nostalgic experience of sipping tea while watching the captivating view of Ooty. We visited the beautiful St. Stephens Cathedral - one of the oldest churches in South India. Soon, it was time for us to head back to Coimbatore to board our flight to Mumbai. We bid adieu to the pretty place.

St.Stephen's Cathedral





Other Places To See In Ooty 

Some other popular destinations in Ooty are: Rose Garden, Avalanche Lake, Pykara, Mudumalai National Park, Wenlock Downs. There are also several trekking, horse riding, hand gliding and mountain biking trails for the adventure buffs.

Top Recommendations:

1.           Do not miss the boating at Ooty lake.
2.           Experience of the Nilgiri heritage toy train.
3.           Get yourself captured amidst the stunning Coonor Tea estates.
4.           Walk at the Upper Bazaar road for some local feel and shopping.
5.           Get home famous Ooty chocolates (Kingstar Confectionery) and Eucalyptus Oil.
6.           Try out the popular Gobi Manchurian at any restaurant or street vendor.
7.           For fine dining, Ascot Multi cuisine restaurant has various options for buffet and A la Carte.